As
important as the mechanical and optical characteristics of the scanning machine
are, the software you use to scan has an equally profound effect on results. Manufacturer
labeled software plus other software may come bundled with your scanner. In
some cases, and depending on your goals, the scanner maker-labeled software
supplied might be sufficient to your needs. Check it out before you buy more
software. In general, heavy users will probably want to check out third-party
software as well.
Some
programs are quite simple in terms of their options and certainly can be used
for prints and some film work; a more feature-rich package is where you will
find options for many types of film and sophisticated enhancements and
corrections. However, I rarely use the initial scan as my final anyway and make
very basic adjustments in the scan and pass along the file to image editing
software for corrections. This is not to say that you scan on Auto, as the
settings you make will have a profound effect on the type and quality of file
you create.
Note that
some older scanners, while fine machines, may have issues working with newer
operating systems, so always check compatibility before making a software buying
decision. Some third-party software makers offer updated versions of scanner
drivers for use in newer operating systems; unfortunately, equipment
manufacturers rarely do, opting to sell you a new scanner rather than service
their older machines or, in some cases, have dropped making scanners altogether
and simply do not support their older products. This is somewhat reprehensible,
but nothing new in the computer electronics game. Check the contact information
at the end of this post for web sites where you can crosscheck older scanners
with third-party software to see if you can find a fit.
Here is the input screen on Epson's scanner software. Click on the image to enlarge it if need be. The input here is for 24-bit color (8 bits per RGB channel) at 4800 dpi from a 35mm slide. Unsharp masking is set, Note the various adjustments available, When you click on one of the icons a control panel comes up where you can make changes.
While many
folks still use “older” scanners they tend to do so with older computers (read
older OS’s) as well. There is no problem with this, and it’s why I rarely recycle
“old” computers.
Following
are some important items that should be part of the scan software. Note that
each brand and version of software will differ in how these parameters are
input, and each format and image type (film, print) will differ slightly in the
options offered or required.
You may find
that the “brand name” software that comes bundled with your scanner is not a
complete as you would like for some projects, but is perfectly fine for others,
While scanner company software can handle many tasks, my experience is that as
you get deeper into scanning or want a fuller range of tools you will probably
want to explore the third-party options as well.
I will go
over each of these scan tool options in step-by-step fashion in the workflow
section. For now, here’s a summary:
File Name: Each scan or set of scans should
have a unique name/number that will help you sort the images out later. You
also choose a “path” or specific folder into which the scanned image is placed
after it is done.
Type of Image: This offers the choice of reflective
(print) or transparent (film). This requires a different physical setup of the flatbed
scanner for each.
Bit Depth: As in a previous post, this
determines the amount of information per pixel in the scan. Higher bit depth
equals more image information but it can really jump up file size.
Resolution: As discussed previously, the pixels
per inch of the scan. Higher numbers offer the ability for bigger enlargements,
although some formats may have quality limitations. Higher resolution will also
boost file size. When scanning, choose the original image size as the output
and use the resolution to get larger file, thus print size capability.
Image File Format: Generally you can choose JPEG or
TIFF file formats. Keep in mind that JPEGs are compressed files, and TIFF is
the better choice, although if you are scanning for a web page only JPEG is the
way to go. My choice is to scan TIFF as I can always batch process any TIFFs to
sized JPEGs later.
Image Parameters: This can include contrast, midtone
placement, color balance and saturation, all of which you control with sliders
or similar tools. My approach is to scan as “neutral” as possible (not trying
to over-correct) while still retaining as full a tonal scale as possible, although
some tweaks here, depending on the sophistication of the software, can emulate
what you might be able to achieve in image editing software later. The toolbox
usually includes a histogram tool, which can be helpful in avoiding clipping
(loss of highlight or shadow information).
Film Profiles: These are presets that are
configured according to a set of film characteristics that, when matched
correctly, will generally save you work in color balance or black and white
contrast adjustments later. Some software will have more extensive profiles
than others, and they are worth exploring. Keep in mind that when you scan film
you are dealing with a set of characteristics (color balance, contrast, white
balance) that are, in effect, hard-boiled into the film itself. If you “fight’
these characteristics by having a generic or incorrect profile you are rowing
against the tide and will have to do lots of work later, or not be able to get
the scan right. This is especially important with negative film.
Some software
packages have numerous profiles for many different film stocks and brands, in
both black and white and color, and while not always spot on will at least put
you in the ballpark. Or, you can experiment and mix and match and try different
profiles and see what that gets you. As you do so you will be surprised at the
varied results that are obtained. Because of its different “build”, Kodachrome
film will generally require that you choose that profile rather than other types
of slide film, which in more basic software can be simply a “slide film”
generic profile.
Unsharp Masking: This curious phrase actually means
sharpening, and most software has a default that you can change. This setting
actually increases contrast at the pixel edge, thus giving the impression of
enhanced sharpness. I generally keep it at the preset in the knowledge that I
cannot effectively sharpen an unsharp image, although some images might benefit
from increasing the sharpening strength. If there is a “Clarity” or “Structure”
option it is, to me, a generally better way to enhance the look of sharpness in
an image, as this helps avoid some of the “etched” look that overuse of Unsharp
Masking imparts.
Dust and Scratch Removal: Dirt can easily embed itself in film
emulsions, and short of rewashing the film (though that does not always work)
the best way to help remove some of the objectionable stuff is to use this
option. Note that this is not a “noise” reduction tool, which generally will
soften the image. It works by scanning the image for anomalies and then placing
that information into a fourth (aside form the three of RGB) layer, and then
tossing that information out when the image is processing.
There are
other options available, such as “multi-scanning,” “auto contrast detection and
correction,” “grain reduction” and more that will be covered in the workflow
section. Again, the sophistication of the scanner software, and your need to
apply these changes during the scan, will determine how much you need or will use
these advanced features.
Here's the input panel from Silverfast SE Plus, a comprehensive software that allows for many input and parameter options. Atop the panel are film selectors (note Kodachrome option); below that are file format, name and path inputs, and dpi. (Note: this screen is from a 4x5 color transparency scan so dpi is 1200 pip and file size output is 74.8MB). Also shown here are some parameter control options, which I will cover in the workflow sections.
Final Thoughts on Software
The scanner’s optics, scan module,
etc., are important, but if you know what the inputs do and set them correctly
you will find that scanning is a fairly simple procedure. This may not feel so
simple during your first few forays, but with practice and experience, will get
you excellent scans in very short order.
In all, scanner software should help
you solve certain problems that the image presents, although you may find, as I
do, that some images are irredeemable. As you work, and especially as you edit,
you will begin to recognize what can and cannot be accomplished, even with the
most sophisticated controls.
This can be frustrating, but all told
not as frustrating as banging your head against the wall of trying to rescue an
irredeemable original image. While there are some images than can be scanned
quickly and easily and be ready for whatever you have in mind for the image—a
print, a web gallery or a custom book—others require more work. Some, however,
may just be a lost cause. With that in mind I will address some typical problem
children in the final section of this project and propose some scanner/image
editing combinations that may bring them back from the brink, plus offer some
advice about matters of discretion and valor.
Contact information for scanner software makers:
Canon drivers and support for
Canon scanners:
“Third Party” software
dedicated to a variety of scanners, plus some support for discontinued scanners no longer supported by the original manufacturer:
Next posting: Scanning Workflow: Scanner Setup and
Calibration
