While you can maximize the
depth of field with a shorter focal length lens, a narrower aperture and standing
back from the foreground subject, it is all for naught if you do not attain
focus on the foreground subject itself. Depth of field at narrower apertures does
“come forward” a bit from the point of the actual focusing distance, but making
sure the foreground is in focus at any aperture is your best bet.
Finding that right point of
focus can be a problem when the front-most point of the scene sits at the side
or edge of the frame, Care must be taken to either focus on that point using AF
and locking focus, or to manually focus the lens on that point. The AF targets in
your finder may cover a considerable amount of the frame, and setting single AF
mode usually defaults the camera to closest subject focus priority, but even
that might not snag the needed focus point in the shot.
There are two ways to insure that
you have caught the proper close focusing point. One is to simply switch to
manual focus and focus on the foreground subject, then set your aperture to get
deep depth of field.
If using autofocus, choose
one focusing target, move the camera to grab and confirm that you have focused
on the foremost subject, lock focus (using the AFL button--autofocus lock), recompose as you wish, and shoot.
Many cameras have an AFL
button or, in most cases, you
can lock focus with light pressure on the shutter release.
Being able to first find
focus and hold it, and then recompose as needed may require some practice, but
as you gain experience it becomes second nature and allows for a good deal of
compositional control.
This photo of a thermal pool
at Yellowstone poses numerous focusing problems for any AF setup. The water and
mist might well cause the AF system to search back and forth because it lacks
a definable (contrast) target. The composition requires focus at the near edges
of the pool, so depth of field has to be from 4 feet to infinity.
To attain focus throughout the
frame, the AF target in the center of the viewfinder was used and the camera
was pointed down so that focus was confirmed (by a beep or lighted target) at
the closest point; focus was then locked. Using this technique, a very narrow
aperture with a very wide lens delivered depth of field from the edge of the
pool to the row of trees in the background.
Settings:
20mm lens: at ISO 200, first, focus was set and locked at the lower edge of the
frame, then exposure settings were made by taking a spot reading from the mist
area with a +1 EV exposure compensation. f/22 at 1/60 second.
It is critical in this photo
that the tree and rocks on the left edge of the frame are sharp. That made this
area the important starting point of focus within the frame. To accomplish
this, focus was locked on the foreground rock in the very lower left of the
frame. A spot exposure reading in aperture-priority exposure mode set at f/11
was taken of the blue area of the sky and locked. With a 28mm lens, depth of
field ranged from 5 feet to infinity.
Settings:
28mm lens, at ISO 200, f/11 at 1/250 second. Focus lock on lower left corner;
exposure lock using spot metering off the blue area of the sky.
