Friday, August 8, 2014


Samsung NX mini
Lab Test and Comments
Edited by George Schaub

This lab test and the comments are by Betternet testing labs, via the TIPA (Technical Image Press Association--www.tipa.com/English) group, on which I serve as a member of the Technical Committee. I have edited the comments and test results and make them available as a service to the photo community. Other Betternet tests I have edited can be found in the Image Tech section on the Shutterbug home page (www.shutterbug.com) where I currently serve as Editor at Large.

The NX mini is Samsung's newest NX camera. The very small compact system uses a 1/1-inch sensor, which is the same size as the image sensor in Nikon 1 series cameras and Sony's RX100 models.

The new sensor format made a new lens mount system necessary. As of this writing only two lenses are available: the 9 mm f/3.5 lens with fixed focal length and a 9-27mm f/3.5-5.6. Due to the 1-inch sensor and its crop factor of 1:2.7, the 35mm lens equivalents are 24 and 24-73 mm. Samsung offers an optional adapter, which allows use of lenses from their NX system mounts. (Samsung MA4NXM). The adapter supports the AF and aperture system of the NX lenses and gives full compatibility with the new NX mini camera.



The camera offers a 3-inch swivel LCD on the back. The screen can be flipped upwards for “selfies.” The screen offers 460,000 RGB dots, which is below average for a modern compact system camera. The touchscreen of the NX mini is integrated into its operations and allows for setup and placement of the active AF point, for example. The camera offers a standard 4-way control field for image parameters like display mode, AF mode and more. The camera doesn't offer setup vial dials or control wheels, which is a bit unhandy. Even the manual focus setting has to be controlled by the menu buttons; the small “pancake” 9mm lens doesn't have a lens ring for focusing.

Just like all NX cameras, the new Samsung NX mini doesn't offer an integrated image stabilizer. It relies on the OIS systems in the NX lenses. However, the new fixed focal length lens, which was used for this test, doesn't offer this built-in optical image stabilizer, so when mounted the menu setting for “OIS (Anti-Shake)” in the LCD screen is deactivated.



The camera has an electronic shutter system, which allows for use of very fast shutter speed settings. Just like the Nikon 1 series, it allows users to shoot as fast as 1/16,000 sec.

The camera offers an integrated WLAN interface. The WLAN functionality is activated by pressing the “Direct Link” button on the top. A free app for Android smartphones or iOS systems is available. It allows for remote control, image data transfer, direct WLAN presentation on smart TVs and more.

Comments on Image Quality
Color: The Samsung NX mini showed a very good result in the color tests. The automatic white balance system causes only minor aberrations of the gray pattern in the center of the chart and most colors show only a minor shift from their given values. Blue and red nuances are intensified and is the main reason for the high average saturation result (113.6 percent.) Skin tones show a little shift in the direction of pink colors (a higher magenta rate), but are reproduced with clean gradients without banding effects.



Sharpness: The camera reproduced the ISO 12233 chart with 3244 of 3648 lines per picture height. The high-resolution result is a consequence of a very intense sharpness filtering. Tests indicate an extreme overshot result of more than 32 percent and a clipping warning (doubled contour on hard contrast lines.) The very hard and exaggerated contrast lines are noticeable in the standard test images. The effect appears with less intensity in real life images, but may be noticeable in fine details like hair structure in portraits.

Noise: The camera showed a very good performance in the noise tests. By a rising intensity of the anti-noise filtering it keeps the luminance noise factor on a very low level and nearly constant in ISO 160 to ISO 3200 settings. Color noise is low in images taken with ISO 160 to ISO 800, but appears in images taken with ISO 1600 and higher. In images taken with ISO 3200 to 12,800 the anti-noise filtering creates some color clouds/smear in the gray pattern of the test chart and drastically reduced detail reproduction.

The camera achieved a maximum of 11.1 f-stops (at ISO 400), which seems to be the native ISO speed sensitivity of the image sensor. The dynamic range results between ISO 160 and ISO 1600 vary between 9 to 10 f-stops.






Friday, February 10, 2012

Drive Modes, Burst Rates and Frames Per Second



Drive Modes, Burst Rates and Frames Per Second




 To capture action sequences make use of the drive mode in your camera. Here, continuous mode has been set at 4 frames-per-second and the camera was moved along with the action, set at 1/500 second shutter speed. You can use this technique to pick the best shot in the set or to show how the action unfolds in a sequence of images.
Photos copyright George Schaub All Rights Reserved

There are generally three, and sometimes four options in the “drive” mode in a digital camera, and each has a specific benefit. Single is probably the drive mode you would most commonly use. Set this and the camera will not “allow’ you to expose unless focus has been confirmed and you get one shutter release for each time you apply pressure to the shutter release button. This is ideal for portraits, landscapes and other scenes where the subject will not move. Think of it as a “stationary” mode.

Then there are one (or two) continuous advance modes, which means that, within limits, the shutter will fire for as long as you keep pressure on the shutter release. You set this for bracketing modes (which means that the shutter will fire three, or however many shots you have set in the bracketing sequence) where one pressure will fire off the sequence of shots. This mode is also used as a kind of still video mode (many shots in sequence.) And then there’s the self-timer mode, which delays shutter release for a set period of time after you press the release.

There may be a difference in file size recorded if you have the option for “continuous low” and “continuous high” drive modes. In some cameras, because of the limitations of the processor, continuous low may allow you to record at whatever resolution you have selected, be it in Raw or JPEG format. In some, when choosing high, you get a faster framing rate (stated as “frames per second”) but the camera will record with a lower file size, and may even limit you to shooting in JPEG format. Again, this has to do with the camera processor and how much information it can handle quickly. Check the specs on your camera to see how this is handled.

The speed at which digital cameras can record images has increased substantially over the past few years. First there’s shutter speed, which in quite a few cameras can be as fast as 1/8000 second, a slice of life that is quite hard to imagine. In short, the camera can now “see” action in ways that the human eye cannot, and can deliver split seconds of action that sports and wildlife photographers could only dream of in the past.

There are two more factors—the speed at which cameras can process and write to the memory card (and the speed at which the card can “receive” the information) and the number of shots you can get  in a sequence, known as the “burst rate.”

Video has changed the game when it comes to still photography, at least in terms of how memory cards can “read and write” the information that comes from the camera. The latest cards are designed for gathering information quickly from even the most advanced digital cameras. This is especially helpful when working in Raw format, as the information from each shot tends to be fairly large, and having a highly rated speed card will open up the most creative continuous shooting capabilities.  This also depends on the image processor in the camera and how fast it can process the images as you record them. In some cases the card can handle more than the camera can deliver, and the rule is that the slowest part of the process will determine the overall speed.

That’s where the burst rate comes into play. The burst rate tells you how many shots you can make in a set period of time before the camera calls a halt while it processes the images you have shot. These images are stored in what’s called a buffer, a kind of waiting room while the processor churns through all the information you have sent its way. Once you reach the burst limit everything comes to a halt (including further shooting) until that buffer is cleared. (This also happens when shooting long time exposures, exposures where you have applied a lot of noise reduction and other processor intensive tasks.)

The time period mentioned above is another factor. For example, burst rates may be stated as “eight shots per second for 12 exposures”, or “4 shots per second for 18 exposures” and so forth. The shutter speed also comes into play. Naturally, the longer the shutter speed the less shots you can get into a shots-per-second burst. If exposure is ½ second you can't get more than two shots a second. But there's another thing to consider--generally, the longer the exposure, the longer the processing time. In some cameras the processing time is equivalent, roughly, to the exposure time. It all depends on which generation image processor you have. The latest processors are much more burst and speed capable than in the past.

ND Filters-- Built-in or Add-on

In light control you have two tools, one of which is fairly open-ended and the other of which is fairly limited. The latter is the aperture, where there is a range of perhaps 6 or 7 stops, with each stop representing a halving or doubling of the amount of light coming through. The shutter speed offers a much wider range, and may be, with a system that allows you to shoot from 30 seconds to 1/8000 second automatically, a range of 18 stops (!) So, when adjusting for the light at hand you have more leeway when setting shutter speed than when setting aperture.

For example, let’s say you are working in dim light. You open the aperture on your lens to its widest setting, say f/4. That’s as much light as the aperture will bring to the table. You have maxed out on the quality limit of your ISO, say that's at ISO 800, and you know that going with more ISO will diminish picture quality to the point where it's not worth it. 

But the shutter speed can be set at a very slow speed, even as slow as a few seconds. Of course you need a tripod to keep the picture steady, but shutter speed will not limit you in making the shot, even though aperture “quit” on the deal at f/4 and ISO above 800 might just have been too noisy.

However, let’s say you want to create the image effect of a slow shutter speed in bright light. You might want to capture a “flow motion” effect on a waterfall or a stream, or pan, follow a subject in motion as you make the shot, a runner or a speeding car at a race. That is more challenging, as the aperture may not allow you to create that effect because it can only limit the light coming through even when closed down to its minimum aperture. And when shooting for that effect only a certain range of shutter speeds will do—from about 1/15 to ¼ sec.

For example, say you take a reading of a waterfall in bright light and know that to gain the effect of flowing water you need a shutter speed of about 1/8 to ¼ second. You set the ISO at its lowest, since you do not want more sensitivity on the sensor, you want less. And even at the minimum aperture on your lens, say f/16, the shutter speed comes up at 1/60 sec. How can you “lose” three steps to 1/8 sec or four steps to ¼ sec.

This photo was made using the minimum aperture of the lens, f/22, at ISO 100, with a 4X ND filter over the lens, at 1/8 second, yielding a flow effect on this waterfall. Photo copyright George Schaub, all rights reserved.

You solve this problem with a neutral-density (ND) filter over your lens to diminish the amount of light coming through the lens. An ND filter is “neutral” in that it does not change the color of the light, and offers a “density” or degree of darkening effect. The filter comes in various strengths, in multiples of 2, where a 2X gives you a one-EV gain, a 4X, 2 EV and so forth. Thus, using a 4X ND filter on the example above, you could shoot the scene in the same light and at the same ISO at f/16 at 1/15 second and with an 8X filter it would be f/16 at ¼ sec, yielding the flow effect you desire and the shutter speed used here.

A number of cameras, including Canon's G series digicams, now offer this as a built-in, and using the menu you can choose the power of the ND as needed. Also note that this is one control—the shutter speed effect-- you can’t apply after exposure in any image processing software.


Monday, June 20, 2011

Art & Craft



This 5x7 glass plate negative made in the nineteenth century was made into a print by scanning using a flatbed scanner. The mix of materials and techniques in photography bridges technology and melds 100 year old images with modern techniques. While the image, the art, remains, the techniques are in a constant state of change.

When lovers of great literature gather they rarely debate the make of typewriter used by Hemingway, or the paper on which he typed his first draft of A Farewell to Arms. Yet photographers tend to spend an inordinate amount of time discussing equipment and technique. Naturally, lively talks about inspiration and vision take place, but only critics and outsiders seem to disdain the important matters of craft. Those who practice photography know instinctively that there is no wall between the art and craft of photography.

Photography is a field in which this dialectic is affirmatively resolved, where discipline of craft equals freedom of expression. It’s as if a painter could create a painting without knowing how to mix paint. It might work, but some subtlety of expression would be lost.

Even the briefest study of photography leads to the conclusion that the greater ability to express, and the expanded modes of expression are intimately tied to the evolution of the ways and means of taking and making pictures. While the subject of the image is often a child of its age, an expression of the attitudes and social mores of its times, the mechanics of camera, processing and printing is often as much a part of the image as the idea communicated in the image itself. Though new ways of seeing are at the core of the evolution of photographic art, the defining principles of that vision are greatly determined by the equipment and processes used to manifest that vision.

Arguments have been made that portraits made in the first thirty years of photography surpass in beauty, charm and revelation of the human spirit those made today. Those images were more startling to their contemporary viewers than most photographs are to us today, if only because the medium was nowhere near as prevalent as it is now. Yet the revelation of character in today's fine portraiture, with all the layers of meaning we bring to the image, could only be achieved with today's equipment used by today's photographers.

Just as with early photographs, admittedly viewed through the filter of the ravages of time, the images created today are subject to the matrix of vision that is bounded by our ability to manifest that vision. That is why with each progression in technology there is so much more visual expression to explore.

The vigor with which photography grabbed the human imagination can be traced to its serving both masters so well. Essential to its understanding is that it addresses most directly the very human need to communicate through images, and plays upon the human ability to empathize with abstract forms. Thus, the mechanical serves the artistic, which in turn creates communication on virtually every level of visual perception.

The linkage between the art and craft has its roots in those people who pioneered modern photography. Many of the early explorers were artists seeking new and more efficient ways to create images from nature. Many were men and women who were grounded in the scientific method of discovery, yet who were also practicing artists, or associated with circles concerned as much with aesthetics as they were with experimentation.

Photography sprang from a time when the lines between science, art and craft were no so clearly drawn, and when curiosity went beyond prepackaged solutions to meaningless problems.

Thursday, June 2, 2011

What’s Tech Got to Do with It?


Image: Today's camera tech opens up some amazing photo ops that would have been near impossible before and makes us think less about how we make the image than why we might be making it. This shot of Taos Plaza at Christmas time was made at an ISO of 12,800 with a handheld camera at 1/10 sec using a VR (vibration reduction) lens. Copyright George Schaub

Do today’s SLRs: A) help us make better pictures; B) change the way we see; C) all of the above; D) none of the above


There’s no question that modern SLR cameras represent the height of photographic technology and in many ways echo the ingeniousness and at times presumptuousness of all machines today. The speed at which these cameras make and apply judgments about focusing and light reading is incredible, at times following focus and adjusting to changing light at 10 frames per second. Considering that we are often still dealing with a mirror assembly (though this may change with Sony’s new “translucent” technology) that must raise and lower while the camera simultaneously changes light settings and focusing distance, the coordination of calculation and mechanical application is fairly mind boggling.

Many people have mixed feelings about just what this technology offers. They question whether it helps or hinders the photographer in becoming more expressive and spontaneous, yet have little doubt that it allows him or her to more productive in their work.

The obvious response to all this is that it’s the eye and not the camera that makes pictures. But there are other factors involved. In some instances the capabilities of today’s picture machine demands that the photographer think beyond what their eye can see and that presumed limitations on the kind of images that can be made no longer hold true. It is becoming evident that photographers should consider changing their thinking and go beyond what he or she might have created with a standard bred 20th century 35mm SLR. The new technology is challenging in and of itself, in that photography must be relearned in the context of how it is now applied. The challenge necessarily extends to considerations of just what kind of images the new technology allows us to make.

Recent advances have a lot to do with speed, both in operating and capture times. There are now super-fast shutter speeds (such as 1/8000 second is typical) and super fast framing rates (8 frames per second is not uncommon). We can also now use longer lenses at faster shutter speeds with vibration reduction technology. Along with speed comes increased exposure and focus automation. One of the most exciting fields is in flash exposure automation and multiple wireless flash with TTL automatic exposure.

The old school still insists that photographic principals haven’t changed for 150 years and that we should continue to teach photography in the same way we did in the middle of the 20th century. Where I teach some of my colleagues still insist that students go out and buy a manual exposure SLR, take manual exposure readings and set them by hand. The thinking is that this is the only way to understand light and equivalent exposure, learn depth of field, and so forth. This might have been true twenty years ago but to me it’s like considering the divine spirit as some sort of thirteenth century robed patriarch with a beard sitting on a throne up in heaven.

It also misses the point of just what the modern SLR offers. True, there is certainly merit to the thinking that much of the new technology is technology for its own sake, a competition between rival engineers who sit up at night gnashing their teeth over how to shave microseconds from mirror bounce effects. But there is also merit in considering just what this new technology means to a photographer’s view of the world and how he or she can express it.

To me the changes in camera technology, which I have reported on for the past thirty years, have as profound effect on photography as the affordability and accessibility of digital imaging techniques. Anyone who has worked for any amount of time with images in the computer know how it changes your relationship with your work. It has freed photographers from the old limitations of the chemical darkroom and made imaging more available to more people than ever before. I am of the school that the creative cycle is not complete until you make your print from the image you captured. Anyone who has done so knows how it closes the circle and how essential it can be to the photographic process.

Today’s SLR technology might seem quite shocking to anyone who hasn’t played with a new camera even in the last three years. Autoexposure is one clear example. Today’s systems are a far cry from past light measuring cells that sent out current to a meter that converted the light energy to aperture and shutter speed values. Evaluative or Matrix metering systems now analyze the image by dissecting it into a number of zones. The system then calculates exposure by performing complex calculations. This compares the distribution and intensity of light in those zones to a large set of stored exposure solutions in its microprocessor. Only then is the exposure value sent to a system that holds one factor constant (aperture or shutter speed depending on the photographer’s chosen metering mode) while calculating and setting the other to match the light intensity at hand. Add built-in tone compensation, built-in “HDR” and more and exposure, and even consideration of light, is a far cry from the work done even in the late 20th century.

With this automation comes the recognition that overrides are needed to sometimes correct the camera-recommended exposure. This is especially true should the photographer work in any of the spot metering modes, where tonal placement must often be adjusted for the classic metering failures such as bright and dark dominance within the frame. We can take for granted that these overrides will allow us to finesse the automation. We also have autoexposure bracketing, autoflash bracketing and easy exposure compensation inputs. We can even control which variable will be affected by choosing aperture priority when we want to compensate via shutter speed and shutter-priority should we want to have aperture change in our bracketing sequence.

Autofocusing has come a long way since it’s first awkward attempts at hands free distance settings. I remember the amazement that met the Minolta Maxxum camera when it first hit. But I also remember going out on a field test with Sports Illustrated photographer Richard Mackson with one of the early AF cameras (not the Maxxum). About ten minutes into the basketball game Mackson asked me to hold the camera between toe and finger so he could make a field goal kick of it into the stands. It couldn’t follow any action and often jumped from player to player just as he was about to take the picture.

Now we have follow focus, dynamic focus and multiple focusing targets within the viewfinder. AF lock stays with a subject even if another one momentarily blocks the view. Subjects are passed from one focusing target to another through the viewfinder frame. We can select single or multiple AF sites and even link or separate metering from those sites. True, autofocusing still has its foibles, but ask nature and sports photographers how AF has affected their work.

Advances in flash exposure, especially when coordinated with ambient readings and fill flash techniques have been particularly impressive. Those who grew up with guide number calculations and chart reading on the back of flash units and who haven’t experienced a modern dedicated flash can only guess at the convenience they afford.

Tricky daylight fill flash, night slow sync techniques and off-camera and wireless, three unit flash exposure is now through the lens automatic. Even close-up flash techniques, which in the past required bellows extension factors and all sorts of angling and reflectors, are now pushbutton automatic and multi-flash capable. Flash overrides and compensation can now be coordinated with ambient light exposure compensation to give the photographer more control over light and its manipulation than ever before.

You can now also customize SLRs to operate in ways that you feel fit your personal style or shooting needs. These custom function settings arrange or re-arrange the camera’s default operating procedures. You can change the buttons and dials you use for exposure compensation and autoexposure and autofocus lock, change the degree of compensation, change the focusing patterns and spots, link or disengage autofocus and spot metering coordination, change the coverage of the center-weighted meter, add or eliminate a grid screen display in your viewfinder or LCD, etc.

All in all, it’s fairly easy to scoff at automation as a crutch for the less photographically gifted. Sure it’s easy to figure out flash exposure if you have the guide number and know distance and aperture, or to even gain an instinct for it. And one could say that it is best to learn enough hand/eye coordination to release the shutter to catch the peak of the action rather than bang away at 10 frames per second knowing that the peak will probably not fall between the cracks.

But to me that misses the point. No one has to prove themselves to work with a camera. There is no test you have to pass to make images. There is no gauntlet you must run to prove yourself worthy of the name “photographer”. Life is too short for that sort of nonsense.

But there is some added responsibility with this new tech. First there’s the need to understand the new terminology and how it translates from the old. Following that there’s the need to consider what a shutter speed of 1/8000 second or a ten frames per second framing rate might teach us about how we can image time and motion. Or how multiple flash automation might change the way we think about light manipulation in the field.
Consider the new tech as a springboard to new ways of making images.

If you could be fairly well assured that 90 percent of the time exposure and focus will be on the mark, how would that free up your “seeing”? Perhaps this automation allows us to dwell on what we want to say rather than how we need to make settings to go about saying it. Perhaps we can waste less time making settings and more time looking.

In essence it raises the question of what’s more important--the how or the why. Today’s automation diminishes the worry and time taken with the how and gets you closer to the perhaps more essential issue of the WHY.

Weighty issues those, considerations of time and motivation. And, perhaps, pretentious ponderings as well. But if we are to take our photography seriously, and I contend that it is one of those things we should take seriously only because it often tells the story of our life, then we should perceive automation not as a deterrent to learning about photography but as a way towards gaining a newfound freedom of expression. Of course we should know what increases and decreases the zone of sharpness and how shutter speed settings affect how thinly we slice the arc of time, but let’s leave it at that and let the machine handle the rest. The more transparent the machine the more we can think about where it can take us. Perhaps we will have less control over camera operation. But letting that go might just allow us to create images that we might not have imagined possible before.

Hyperfocal Distance & Zone Focusing


This entry is aimed at those who want critical focusing control in their work. The techniques apply to working with a fixed focal length lens and working in manual focus.

Image: To make sure that focus was sharp from the foreground of this old truck to the facing truck in the background I worked in manual focus mode with a 24mm lens and used the hyperfocal distance technique described in the text. Copyright: George Schaub

Focus on an object very far away and take a moment to look at the distance scale on the lens; you might see that the distance setting is beyond the last numerical value on the distance scale (usually that's 30 feet on a 50mm lens) and is marked with an infinity sign. Now check the parameters of the f/16 notation on the depth of field scale-this shows that your zone of focus stretches from about 15 feet (the distance on the border of the f/16 mark on the left side of the depth of field scale) to well beyond any marking on the distance scale. As there is no distance beyond this infinity, this setting tells you that you are in focus from 15 feet to, well, the moon and beyond.
But what about the fact that you have the right side of the f/16 depth of field hash mark well beyond any footage indicator-does this mean you are "wasting" depth of field potential? In a word, yes; but there's an easy way to get it back. (Note, in some lenses the footage markers within the depth of field scale work in reverse to how we're describing it here. If your camera works in this fashion, just reverse left and right as you read on, Actually, the direction in which the distances move is much less important than the idea of manipulating distance settings on your lens to maximize depth of field.)
If you're shooting from the rim of the Grand Canyon out into the distance, your depth of field setting is unimportant, as long as the infinity setting is enclosed within the hash marks of the aperture in use. But if you have subjects in the scene that sit closer than 15 feet, you can set the lens so that you still have focus at infinity and include a focused item in the foreground as well.
The technique you use to do this is called using hyperfocal distance. The first step here is to turn off autofocus. Then you align the infinity marker with the right-side hash mark on the depth of field scale with the aperture number in use, then take note at what distance the left side aperture number falls. The left side number is the minimum distance at which you will have focus, when your furthest point of focus is at infinity.
For example, if we set hyperfocal distance on a 50mm lens at f/16, we find that our zone of sharpness is about eight feet to infinity. This is a pickup of seven feet from our previous setting; we don't lose anything by setting hyperfocal distance, we just gain a bit more foreground sharpness.
You can also manipulate the zone of focus when the farthest shooting distance is less than infinity. Called zone focusing, it's based on the same idea as hyperfocal distance; you manipulate the depth of field scale so that aperture settings enclose certain distances-these distance settings become your zone of sharpness.
For example, let's say that our farthest subject is ten feet away; by setting the number 10 next to the f/16 hashmark on right side of the depth of field scale, we see that we know have a zone of sharpness from about 4&1/2 to 10 feet. Likewise, setting at the 30 foot mark shows a near-focus of seven feet. Keep in mind that these settings are estimates of the actual depth of field; however, the settings certainly will be close enough for most of your shooting needs.
Pre-setting zone of focus can be a real help when you're doing spontaneous candids, or when you just don't have time to focus each shot. By pre-setting your zone of focus so that you can shoot without worrying about focus from, say, four to fifteen feet, you can photograph without bringing the camera to your eye, and still get almost every shot you take in focus. Of course, your composition may be a bit off, but "shooting from the hip" is an old tradition with candid street photographers.
Of course, there are times when you can be more deliberate about what you want to bring into focus. By using the depth of field scale you can make fairly precise settings to get the most out of the available zone of sharpness. For example, let's say you're shooting a statue in front of a building and want to include both the statue and building in focus. Without using or being aware or depth of field manipulations you might not get the effect you wanted; with them you can play some amazing visual tricks. It's safe to say that depth of field manipulations are underused by most photographers, especially those with autofocusing cameras; get a handle on them so you don't lose out on their amazing potential to make the most out of every shot.
The depth of field preview button is an important player in this game as it stops the lens down to its taking aperture, thus allows you to see the effect the lens setting has on focus. At some apertures, such as f/16, the viewing screen becomes quite dark; so dark, in fact, that you may have trouble seeing what's going on. If this happens, open up another stop so you can see focus on the viewfinder better, then stop down to your selected aperture when you take the shot. This won't give you an exact idea of the depth of field at your taking aperture, but it will certainly give you a better idea of final picture focus than will looking through the lens at maximum aperture. If your camera does not have a preview button, get another camera and in the meantime use the depth of field scale on the lens.

Online Photo Storage: A Cautionary Tale

The following I guess could be thought of as what's known as a cautionary tale, one that you might like to read to get an idea of the ethereal nature of this medium, especially for items you might treasure like family photos. This was written in late 1999 and while admittedly things were in their "infancy" at that point, in terms of photo sharing the models and concepts remain the same. The game here is to find how many of these photo services are still around and guess what might have happened to all the images stored on them. It also shows just how naive the writer (me) was about all that at the time.

Online Finishing: The Growth of a New Industry


With the growth of digital camera sales and especially the increase in film images being digitized, the photofinishing industry is gearing up for a new way to receive and print your images. The idea of photofinishing on line has become a reality. Everywhere you turn—from radio to TV to newspaper ads—there are photo related sites touting the ability to hold onto the family album, send and share pictures between distant relative and friends and offer prints from uploaded or pre-loaded images that come from virtually every source. While the digital minilab and the walk-up kiosk may still handle the walk-in trade of the future, it’s becoming clear that many people think that the Internet will be a major venue for photofinishing services as well.

According to Media Metrix, the use of home PC photography programs has grown from 3.8 million users in 1997 to over 16.7 million users in late 1999. That means that just about 1 in 5 of every home PC is using digital photography in some fashion or other. While that growth is impressive, so is the future potential.

A host of innovative companies have fueled the rapid development of online digital services. Many of these Internet sharing sites are brand spanking new. In a touch of graceful irony one such firm, established in 1998, claims to have a “well-established track record.” But that’s what’s old in this new age.

If you’d like to check out what these sites are like you might try two of the most successful, Shutterfly.com and ActiveShare.com. In fact the two sites are linked in a partnership that brings the best of both worlds—the photofinishing expertise of Shutterfly and the muscle of ActiveShare’s parent, Adobe software—to the table.

Shutterfly.com is a sharing site, printing site and photo enhancement site all in one. Just what is a sharing site? It’s a place where you can either upload your images from your digital camera or those film images you have had digitized via Picture CD and share them with family and friends. You are assigned an album space, actually memory on a server, that you fill up with images. Your album has an address that is accessed only through a password you choose and that you share with those you want to see the images.

Once you have an album account established you can order and send prints, enhance the photos with borders, cropping and other special effects and then have them printed and add to or create new albums as you go.

So let’s say you take some photos on vacation and want to show them off to your family and friends in different parts of the country. Or you’ve met new friends on your travels and want to send them images you took of the times you spent together. All you need is their e-mail and your album password.

You use Shutterfly's Smart Download software to get your digital images from your camera or hard drive and send them over the line. Or if you’ve shot film you can send them the roll and..guess what? You get free film processing and posting of your images online. It seems like a win/win situation all the way down the line. You get free film processing, free sharing and free access to your album while Shutterfly gets the chance to sell you prints for yourself and your family and friends.

Adobe’s ActiveShare site works with Shutterfly. If you enter their site at ActiveShare.com you can also get prints through Shutterfly, plus you can create a sharing circle of friends. The service is called e.Circles and it’s a way to create an instant community of photo sharers. What you do is identify friends as interested parties in certain types of your photos. Some might like to see your vacation shots while others are for closer family and friends. You can limit pictures of the kids to grandparents and siblings while sharing your hobby with another group of eCircle folks. It’s like a broadcast service built into a sharing site.

You can also use ActiveShare.com’s AmazingMail.com for creating postcards using any of your images. You upload images and order the postcard, and the company will create and mail them for you.

Of course the best way to get the most from the site is via Adobe’s PhotoDeluxe software, which comes with ActiveShare as part of the package. That way you can make all sorts of changes and do lots of creative work on your images and then send them or order prints.

Another active e-finishing business is PhotoPoint, which claims to be the world’s largest photo sharing website. Recently, PhotoPoint signed an agreement with Kodak making Print@Kodak available to PhotoPoint folks. The company is also very promotion minded, recently awarding a photographer a million bucks for winning a contest. The company also announced that it recently received their 10 millionth image.

Zing and Sony
At Zing they claim to be the most trafficked online photo community. The site, zing.com, provides free photo storage, album and sharing services, content and mail order photo printing. The company claims that their open architecture allows them to provide a customized, co-branded photo center that can be integrated easily with partner website activities.

Recently, Zing announced a partnership with Sony to help strengthen Sony’s online digital imaging presence, dubbed ImageStation. The company also is offering PictureIQ, an online photo editing and manipulation application. The company also works with HP and their new “scan to web” technology. This takes images scanned on HP scanners right into a Zing sharing site.


Talking Pictures
At dotPhoto they claim to be the first web site that integrates photo sharing with voice and sound capability plus digital finishing. The company offers, for $4.99, a first time membership that includes printing of 36 uploaded images, free shipping and a free personal computer microphone, required for the voice-to-picture technology.

The Kodak/AOL partnership has been getting some press, so the logical next step was for Yahoo! to get involved. They have done so with Yahoo! Photos, with printing and services provided by Shutterfly. As an intro, the company is offering first time users 15 free prints. At Yahoo! Photo you can create albums, add photos, share and send and order prints. There’s also one click access to club and auction sites.

So photofinishing has become e-photofinishing and now labs are web-based application service providers for both consumers and other imaging partners. The jargon is amazing, but so are the ideas and changes ahead. Has e-finishing taken the world by storm? Not yet. In fact, regular film processing increased over 10% in the last year. But digital camera users now have a photofinishing service that is almost as convenient as bringing the film down to the corner store. But the only highway they have to drive on to get there is the Internet.